The people of Johar, as the Milam valley is locally known, were traders whose caravans crossed from India into Tibet by the high passes of Unta Dhura and Kungribhingri La. Once the trading season was over the entire population of Milam and the surrounding areas migrated to Munsyari or lower during winter. Trade stopped with the Indo-China conflict of 1962 and these once prosperous villages are now deserted. However the trail still exists, linking the villages and beckoning trekkers. Munsyari is the starting point of this trek and Wayfarer offers you a combined itinerary that includes a visit to the Nanda Devi base camp area followed up by a trip to Milam glacier. Initially five days of walking takes you to Pachu (3950 mts, 60 kms) the base camp area for Nanda Devi East. The location is exquisite and we usually spend a full day over here. We then return from Pachu to camp at Burfu, across th Gori Ganga river. From Burfu we ascend to Milam where we spend a day and then return to Munsyari.

Day 0 : Arrive in Delhi : Check into your choice of hotel, preferably in Central Delhi.

Day 1 : Take the overnight train from Old Delhi railway station to Kathgodam (Train No. 5013, Departure-22:40 hrs IST)

Day 2 : Arrive at Kathgodam 06:30 hrs. Received by Wayfarer escort and transferred to waiting vehicle after brief rest. Drive to Vijaypur (210 kms, 6 hrs). Check in at Wayfarer Retreat.

Day 3 : After breakfast drive to Munsyari(115 kms, 4 hrs) along a road that winds itself up to a height of 2748 mts before descending into the glorious Munsyari valley. Check in at Wayfarer Mountain Resort for a good rest.

Day 4 : After breakfast drive for 6kms to Dumar and then the trek begins. Our destination is past Lilam village to Rargari (10 kms) where we camp for the night.

Day 5 : Today is a strenous walk along a gorge past the Gori Ganga river. The route is fairly up and down but generally eases off before reaching the camp site at Mapang(3100 mts, 9 kms).

Day 6 : You are in high mountain country now and the tree line disappears giving access to vast stretches of Alpine pastures. The day's walk is past Lhaspa and Rilkot to a magnificent and deserted hamlet called Martoli(3385 mts, 12 kms)

Day 7 : From Martoli you will continue to Ganghar (3260 mts, 12 kms). Throughout the day one gets intermittent views of magnificent Himalayan peaks and just after reaching campsite you will glimpse Nanda Devi East.

Day 8 : It is the big day when you walk form Ganghar to Pachu(3950 mts, 6 kms) and the camp site is an exquisite location. An Alpine meadow laden with rhododendron bushes blooming pink and white, stretches of glacial ice and the massive Nanda Devi looming infront ... it is just another 5 kms away.

Day 9 : How can you walk away from here ? It is a day to rest and simply enjoy yourself in this magnificent location. Options include the hike up to the snow ridges of Nanda Devi East and a visit to the base of Nanda Lampak(5782 mts.). There have been several sightings of bluesheep in the region.

Day 10 : It is time to return and we descend from Pachu to Burfu(3350 mts, 13 kms). The scenary is exciting as the valley opens up. The north faces of the Nanda Devi peaks, several peaks on the Nanda Devi Sancturay wall and Hardeol group are visible. Our camp site is close to the Gori Ganga River amidst a lushgreen meadow.

Day 11 : Burfu to Milam (3452 mts, 8 kms). The day's walk from Burfu offers some spectacular scenery. The north face of Nanda Devi Peaks, several peaks on the Nanda Devi Sanctuary wall and Hardeol group are visible particularly from Bilju village which is about 4 km ahead. The trail leads to Milam (place of meeting) which is a large village, that is quite deserted. We camp on the outskirts of the village.

Day 12 : Visit Milam Glacier - Today we spend most of our time in exploring the Milam glacier. A two hour walk takes us to the tip of Milam glacier - it is the largest glacier in the Kumaon Himalaya.

Day 13 : Milam to Rilkot (3250 mts, 17 kms). The return trip commences in a downhill gradient. We camp at Rilkot for the night.

Day 14 : Rilkot to Bugdyar (2700 mts, 12 kms). This is a steady walk and mostly downhill past the villages of Lhaspa, Mapang and the narrow gorge at Nahar Devi.

Day 15 : Bugdyar to Lilam (1810 mts, 12 kms). We walk downhill all throughout and reach camp site by late afternoon.

Day 16 : Lilam to Munsyari (2290 mts, 12 kms). We retrace our steps along the Gori river past Jimi ghat to Dumar(8kms) from where we board a jeep that takes us to Wayfarer Mountain Resort at Munsyari. We arrive here by noon.

Day 17 : Munsyari to Ranikhet (240 kms). It is time to bid farewell to Munsyari and its mountains. Today we board a vehicle that drives us to Ranikhet through Vijaypur, Bageshwar and Kausani. We checkin for the night at Wayfarer Solitaire. [more..]

Day 18 : Ranikhet to Kathgodam (90 kms). Today is another day when we can chill out and relax. Late afternoon we board a vehicle that drives us to Kathgodam. There is also the option of leaving Ranikhet after breakfast and driving to the legendary Jim Corbett Park. The train to Delhi departs from Kathgodam at 20:40 hrs.