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Valley of Flowers (Frank Smythe's Valley of Flowers) |
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In his book Kamet Conquered, Frank Smythe
nick-named the Bhuidhar Valley (then known as Bhyundar) in
the central Garhwal as the Valley of Flowers in 1931. To mountaineers
the Bhyundar Valley will always be known as the Valley of
Flowers.
It is a place of escape for those who have wearied of modern
civilization. You would have to descend in winter to warmer
and less snowy levels, but for half a year those in search
of beauty and solitude can find peace in the Valley of Flowers. |
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To the southeast of the shrine of Badrinath,
in the Garhwal, is the small village of Bhuidhar. Frank Smythe
and his team, including Eric Shipton and RL Holdsworth, climbed
Kamet (7756m/25447ft) in 1931. Like true explorers they decided
to return by a high pass instead of the usual trade route.
They crossed Bhuidhar Pass (5150m/16897ft) and descended into
the north Bhuidhar Valley. Like many valleys in Garhwal, this
one was in full bloom. With its wide meadows and seemingly
endless
loveliness it must have seemed like paradise after the hostile
and barren slopes of Kamet. |
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The valley was visited in 1862 by Colonel
Edmund Smith, and by TG Longstaff together with Arnold Mumm
and Charles G Bruce in 1907. But it took Frank Smythe's scientific
eye and philosopher's heart to recognise it as the Valley
of Flowers. Since then many have traversed the valley’s
high passes and thousands visit it every year. Today it is
one of the best-known valleys in the Indian Himalaya. |
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After his first brief visit in 1931,
Smythe returned to the valley in 1937 and stayed for four
months. Each week botanical specimens were sent to Joshimath
and then on to Edinburgh where they were housed in a specially
built hot-house in the Royal Botanic Garden. Inspired by Frank
Smythe's work, Edinburgh's Royal Botanic Garden sent Joan
Legge to spend a few months in the Valley of Flowers. With
porters she trekked across the lower foothills, reached Joshimath
and finally Govindghat on 25 June 1939. She walked up slowly,
collecting samples along the way. On 4 July she went up the
slopes towards Khulia Garva, slipped and fell to her death.
Legge's sister requested that her body be buried in the valley.
All the items she carried and collected were listed and sent
to England and a small grave was built where she lay. Her
sister visited the site in 1940 and erected a small memorial,
which still stands there, with the following inscription from
the Bible:
I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills
From whence cometh my help
Since this grave is the only point of reference in the valley
most visitors who reach here believe, rather erroneously,
that it was Joan Legge rather than Frank Smythe who discovered
the Valley of Flowers. |
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Today the Valley of Flowers is a national
park and is well-preserved. This valley owes much to Frank
Smythe. The name he gave it caught on and he made the place
famous. As a result trekkers, non-mountaineers and even weekend
visitors find their way to this easily accessible place of
glorious beauty. Outsiders now know that there is much more
to the Himalaya than shrines and snow. |
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